The Seagull Part VII: Reassembly

So far I am almost finished restoring the Seagull. There a few things left to do:

  • Reassembly
  • Enamel/Lacquer
  • Start it up!

After the paint is dry, it’s time to assemble the Seagull. I had dismantled everything I could, so I began with the small things: the carburetor. The carburetor is the most complex component on the Seagull; there are loads of tiny pieces for it.

Above: As complicated as it gets! These are all the pieces that make up the carb. The smallest parts, off to the right, are very easy to lose.

Above: Building the carburetor. I used some plumbers tape around the threads of the fuel line to prevent leaks.

After building the carb, I inserted the rings and connecting rod into the piston. Then I screwed the connecting rod onto the crankshaft. When I was taking the Seagull apart, I found some metal wire which was wrapped though the two connecting rod screws and most likely keeps them from coming off the crankshaft. I obtained some new galvanized wire and wrapped this exactly where I found the old wire.

Next I inserted the piston and crankshaft into the block. I bolted on the two halves of the crankcase and here’s what I had so far:

I used a meter to test the magneto and wires before I assembled them, to make sure they were in working order. I put the magneto onto the crankcase and secured it in place with two nuts.

Next I rebuilt the lower leg. I didn’t want to scratch the paint so I used a vise to hold the gearbox while I added pieces, this way it wouldn’t move around. Make sure you don’t have the vise squeezing too hard or you’ll damage the metal.

Above: The Lower leg in the vise.

Above the gearbox goes the water pump housing, then the drive shaft and exhaust manifold. Inside the pump housing, concealed from sight, is the impeller (a fan shaped water wheel device which helps with cooling). Remember this piece! It acts as the water pump, and without it the motor cannot cool itself.

Above: The impeller. It spins with the drive shaft forcing water up the water pipe to the block. There is big thick gasket that goes under the impeller.

Make sure to include this gasket; it prevents the impeller from sliding out place.

With the lower leg finished I could attach it to the clamp assembly and power head, and be almost finished. First things first: There is a water tube that runs inside the exhaust manifold from the lower unit to the power head… Remember that impeller? The water it pumps is forced up this tube and up to the block (power head) where it helps the motor maintain a constant temperature (engines get very hot burning all that gasoline). Once the block fills up with water, the overflow exits through a opening and back into the ocean. Very efficient. When I bolted the water tube in, I wrapped some plumbers’ tape around the threads so that no water would leak out. I didn’t think it would leak, but it’s best to be on the safe side. Avoid over tightening the brass nut; it can strip easily.

Above: the water chamber screws into the block.

(You can’t see any plumbers tape because I added it after this picture was taken)

Now that the water pipe is in place I can put it all together. After this, the last step is to attach the flywheel and propeller. I like to put the propeller on last to be safe.


2 responses to “The Seagull Part VII: Reassembly

  1. A very impressive project Max. What an awesome … what do you call it?… BLOG? I am the person that is marking your 4H Self Determined Project andI just wanted you to know that I was here to view what you have done. Great job!

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